As promised, this month’s article will discuss shoes, a thoroughly exhaustive subject cursorily covered in the following.

Most classic shoe models can be traced back to cobblers who made shoes on a bespoke basis, or one pair at a time for each of their customers. Nearly all of the more reputable makers first appeared at least 75 years ago, and some have existed for more than 100 years. Shoes have evolved and been refined, but most are still connected to their original form. The driving force behind shoe design is really the silhouette of the clothes they are meant to be worn with – especially the trousers. Slim trousers with a narrow (pegged) bottom require a slim fitting shoe unless you want your feet to appear larger than they actually are. Conversely, fuller-cut clothing requires heavier shoes. As a general rule, your trousers should cover the lacing of your shoes – approximately two thirds of the shoe’s length.

When buying shoes the following should be considered:

I.      Fit- it’s critical that your shoes fit properly. You don’t walk on shirts, ties, and trousers. Who wants pain with every step they take?

A.     Shop for shoes later in the day; your feet tend to swell.

B.     Don’t believe an unsophisticated sales person who tells you a tight pair of shoes will break in later. They won’t.

C.     The most important factor when choosing a shoe that fits is the last.

1.      The last is the wooden form that the shoe is constructed around.

2.      It determines both the final shape of the shoe, and how it fits.

3.      Choose a favorite shoe maker, then a last from that maker that fits your foot and your aesthetic tastes. Keep buying shoes on that last.  

II.      Construction

A.     High-quality shoes consist of :

1.       An upper- the leather portion that is visible to others

2.      A welt- often two feet or more in length, about three quarters of an inch wide and an eighth of an inch thick.

3.      An insole- the piece of leather that touches your foot on the inside of the shoe

4.      Sole or outsole- leather, or some other form of composite material that comes in contact with a walking surface.

B.     Most  shoes are mass produced with lots of glue

1.      DON’T buy them.

2.      A pair of shoes worth owning will cost at least $250

C.     Buy welted shoes for value and durability. Welted shoes can be resoled by your local cobbler or sent back to their maker. A shoe is welted thusly:

1.      The insole is tacked to the bottom of the last.

2.      The upper is stretched around and tacked to the last.

3.      The welt is then attached using a single row of lock-stitches (two interlocking stitches) to sew it to the upper leather

4.      Welting is usually done with the aid of a Goodyear welting machine.

5.      On many top-quality shoes the sole stitching is hidden in a "channel" and is not visible on the bottom of the sole.

D.    Types of Leather

1.      Calfskin (most prominent) http://suityourself.com/item-group.asp?pgpID=392&cID=0&scID=36

2.      Shell Cordovan (Horsehide) http://suityourself.com/item-group.asp?pgpID=405&cID=0&scID=36

3.      Exotics http://suityourself.com/Genuine_Crocodile_Flex_Sole_Soft_Leather.asp

III.      Types         

A.     Definition of Terms:

1.      The vamp is the forepart of the shoe that covers the toes and instep

2.      The quarters are the two back quarters of the shoe, extending from the center-back seam and ending at the midpoint of the shoe

3.      The tongue is the strip of leather (often padded), directly below the laces

B.     Lace-up shoes:

1.      Open

a.       The quarters are sewn on top of the vamp

b.      The tongue is usually an extension of the vamp

c.       Usually referred to as derbys or bluchers.

d.      http://suityourself.com/Traditional_Business_Dress_Shoes_By_Alden.asp

2.      Closed

a.       The vamp is sewn on top of the quarters

b.      The tongue is usually a separate piece.

c.       Referred to as oxfords or balmorals.

d.      http://suityourself.com/Classic_Business_Dress_Shoes_By_Alden.asp

3.      Styles of Lace-up Shoes

a.       Formal lace-up shoes are often referred to as "plain," with no decorations other than perhaps a double row of stitching on the toe-cap. (see both links above) and http://suityourself.com/item-group.asp?pgpID=393&cID=0&scID=36

4.      A very popular less formal shoe is a brogue. Brogueing refers to a pattern of decorative punched holes along a shoe’s seams.

a.       “Half Brogue” usually indicates a shoe with a straight toe-cap and extensive brogueing.

      http://suityourself.com/Monk_Strap_Buckle_dress_Shoe_Allen_Edmonds.asp

b.      “Full brogues” are also called “wingtips” and with half brogues almost always have a punched "medallion" decoration on the toe. http://suityourself.com/Suede_Wing_Tip_Lace_Up_Aldens.asp

5.      Other Types of Shoes

a.       “Monkstraps” or “monks” close with a buckle. Generally monkstraps are a variation on the derby. http://suityourself.com/Monk_Strap_Buckle_dress_Shoe_Allen_Edmonds.asp

b.      "Norwegian”- another version of the derby.  Most have a three-piece vamp with a split toe. In some versions of the Norwegian, the quarters extend all the way to the front http://suityourself.com/Discount_Alden_Shoes.asp

c.       Slip-ons or loafers- can be constructed and decorated in many ways. May resemble brogues or Norwegians and have saddles or tassels. I don’t own any slip-ons with tassels and don’t wear loafers with suits. http://suityourself.com/item-group.asp?pgpID=402&cID=0&scID=36

IV.      Wardrobe Requirements

A.     Purchase 2 pairs to begin your business career:

1.     Conservative Office Environment-Dark Brown and Medium Brown in Color.

a.       Black shoes should be worn only after 6pm and on formal occasions

b.      Brown shoes present more wardrobe options and will match as many business ensembles more elegantly

2.       More relaxed environment

a.       one pair can be dressier with leather sole

b.      One with a composite bottom for less dressy occasions and to wear in inclement weather. http://suityourself.com/item-group.asp?pgpID=685&cID=0&scID=36

B.     Eventually you’ll want to work up to 5 pairs or more-

1. For each work day for maximum durability- let them breathe- always store them in shoes trees when not in use

a.       Vary according to your personal taste from lace-up oxfords, derbies, and brogues. If you like, add a pair of monks and slip-ons. Shoes are yet another great way to express your individuality and define your style.

V.      Care

A. Polish regularly- you’re too busy to do it yourself- take it to a local cobbler you trust

1.      Spray or wipe regularly with a quality water and scuff repellent

2.      Use shoe trees to remove moisture from the leather and minimize foot odor

As noted above, this article is by no means a thorough examining of the shoe. For additional reading I recommend Handmade Shoes for Men by Laszlo Vass.

I had a lot of assistance on this article from Andrew Harris, a budding fashionista and entrepreneur. Andrew is the West Coast rep for Vass shoes and proprietor of the Internet store World Class Consignments.