Selecting a Suit

Many workplaces are again requiring me to wear suits to work. For many of you this will necessitate buying your first or a new suit.

There are three ways to select a suit:

1. Off the Rack

Buying a suit off the rack consists of going to a local store, selecting something from the store’s inventory, and having it altered to fit you by the store. Before I educated myself and learned what to look for in a well-tailored suit, I must admit that I was awestruck by designer labels. These brands spend a fortune on marketing, and therefore those with luxury aspirations desire them first. A top-shelf suit, not unlike a BMW or Mercedes, is often construed as a status symbol- a testament to one's level of success and achievement.  But no matter how expensive the fabric may be, or what the label on the inside says, if a suit’s not tailored properly you may as well wear it to wash the family car. 

We've all been to the larger department and men’s specialty stores that promise to have you looking your best in minutes. Because men today are busier than ever before and supposedly don’t like to shop anyway, they’re tempted to buy an ill-fitting suit quickly because a salesperson says it looks good on you. More often than not that salesman has a predetermined idea of your size, and will ask you to try a size that reinforces his or her conclusion. Before you know it you’re wearing a garment that doesn’t fit you properly. You know this suit doesn’t look or feel right but your sales associate not so subtly reassures you that “all that extra fabric can be taken in here ”, or “don’t worry we can let that out there”.  Then you have to trust that’s the store’s tailors will fix the salesman’s errors in judgment. There’s a reasonably good chance your suit will fit if the alterations are done in-house by a competent tailor who actually measured you at the time of purchase. If not, you’re usually out of luck. You also have to hope that you’re an easy-to-fit size. Personally I’m uncomfortable with this degree of guesswork and would like a more precise fit from the outset. And I’m not easy to fit. Therefore, I usually choose a made-to-measure or a custom suit. A good off-the-rack suit will cost at least 1,000, and can cost much more.

2. Made-to-Measure

Made-to-Measure suits are exactly that- made to your measurements at the label’s factory. The process can be as short as four weeks or as long as six months. In the store at least 4 of these 6 separate measurements should be taken, the more the better:

1. Chest
2. Shoulders
3. Waist
4. Sleeve Length
5. Trouser Rise (Length from crotch to natural waist)
6. Inseam,

Depending on the label’s program you’re also able to choose important styling elements of your suit such as

7. Fabric
8. Single- or Double- breasted
9. Number of Jacket Buttons
10. Vent style
11. Pocket Style
12. Flat front or Pleated trousers

In addition to the initial measurements, at least two additional fittings are made when the suit arrives, ensuring a much better fit than an off-the-rack suit. A made-to-measure suit is a great way to personalize your style, and will cost $1,200 and up

3. True Custom

A custom suit is the ultimate in luxury and personal style. A true custom suit is made to your measurements at a tailor’s shop. A tailor’s only business is making suits; he or she will be much better at it than any department or specialty store. A tailor will take many more measurements and will usually draw them onto a paper pattern. Together you and your tailor choose all the features of your garment, from everything discussed above to jacket lining colors and button fly trousers. Your suit will require from 3 to 6 fittings, possibly even more. The best tailors do all the work on-premises with the master tailor doing all the work himself, or closely supervising any apprentices or journeyman.

A truly competent tailor should interview you, rather than the other way around. He should ask you questions about your lifestyle and what sort of person you are. What career have you chosen and what are your short- and long-term goals? What kind of office environment do you work in, with what sort of dress code? What image do you wish to project about yourself- today and in the future? A tailor worthy of your trust should ask these questions because he or she should be more interested in you, and working together to achieve a style that works for you, than the size of your wallet.

When interacting with your tailor, try to keep an open mind. Sometimes we like to remember ourselves as being a size 42 when in fact time and Mother Nature have changed our dimensions.  A good tailor will point such matters out to you, never to offend or humiliate, but to be certain that your suit is tailored to your body type, and not the other way around. A proficient tailor will make you look two inches taller and twenty pounds lighter.  In the end you’re the boss, but keep in mind your tailor has much more experience in the sartorial arts.

Obviously, the key to getting a good custom suit is choosing a good tailor, a formidable task if you don't know what to look for or how to look Obviously, this site is a good place to start. I have many custom tailors listed in my book, The Men’s Clothing Guide. If you don’t see one listed in your area, e-mail me and I’ll be happy to help you. Prices for a well-made custom suit start at $3,000.