Secrets to an Elegant Business Casual wardrobe

Business Casual is NOT a company logo- or golf shirt with a pair of Docker’s.

It IS an art form. One that very few men ever master- a golden opportunity to express yourself at work. And business casual is much more common in today’s business world than business professional. Like it or not it’s here to stay. Unfortunately, most men put very little thought into dressing business casual and just throw on the uniform described above.

Dressing business casual is NOT a do-it-yourself job. Proper business casual necessitates  a personal stylist, at least in the beginning. You wouldn’t try erecting a building without an architect, would you? A good stylist will question you about your workplace, company culture, and lifestyle. He or she will help you choose the most flattering items and how to mix and match them  to attain maximum value for the money you spend.

Here are some of the factors a good personal stylist will take into account in building you a good business casual wardrobe:

1. Fabric:
   1. Weights- obviously you’ll want to wear seasonably appropriate items that work for weather where you live.
   2. Textures- a touch of subtle sophistication- particularly while layering pieces- that only the advanced can master.
   3. Colors- what makes sense for:

                                                              i.      Your personal coloring

                                                            ii.      Your climate

                                                          iii.      Your life style

2. Shirts- the following 3 types maximize value:
   1. Button Down- usually acceptable for office or business casual occasions
   2. Crossover- less formal shirts that can be used for business formal or business casual.
   3. Dual Purpose Casual- bought solely for the purpose of business casual, but can be worn without a sport coat for other occasions where you still want to be dressed up.

3. Trouser Styles
   1. Flat Front- currently very much in style; many models cut fully enough for the larger-waisted man.
   2. Forward Pleats- British style- dressier, makes a man look more elegant and slimmer.
   3. Reverse Pleats- still the most popular style- great for disguising midriffs.

4. Shoes are a subject unto themselves.  I’ll deal with them in more detail in September or October, but here are a few suggestions:
   1. Loafers are great for business casual wear, not for business formal. Avoid tassels and kilties; they look hopelessly preppie.
   2. Composite soles also look best in business casual settings. It’s hard to pull them off in a business formal situation.
   3. Stick to casual styles in shoes with laces- derbies, brogues, bluchers, or monk straps, and leather (NOT HIKING) boots.

5. Miscellaneous
   1. Lapel style- the larger you are, the larger your lapels should be.
   2. Shoulders- men with smaller shoulders will need sport coats with a larger    shoulder pad. Men with larger shoulders will need less padding.
   3. Accessories- choose seasonal fabrics. The pocket square is the new tie and finishes an outfit with panache.

Suggestions on composition and number of wardrobe items- remember you’ll need help from a stylist on colors, fabrics, and textures based on your needs:

1. Navy Blazer-
   1. If funds are limited a medium weight that you can wear 6-8 months a year
   2. If not- 1 flannel, 1 tropical wool.
   3. A garment for all occasions. Can be dressed up or down, even worn with jeans depending on style and fabric.

2. Spring Summer
   1. Colder Climate:

                                                              i.      Colors- lighter, to reflect the season. Consult with your stylist to determine what looks best on you-

1.      Beige/White/ Off White/ Sand

2.      Pastels

3.      Warmer/Jewel Colors e.g. hotter pinks, purples, greens

                                                            ii.      Sport coats- 2-colors/textures/patterns chosen by your stylist of following fabrics:

1.      silk

2.      linen

3.      Blends of the two,

4.      Lighter cotton e.g. seersucker

5.      Tropical wools

                                                          iii.      Trousers- 3, same as above to coordinate

                                                          iv.      Shoes- 1 or 2 pairs- examples:

1.      Espadrilles (if you can pull them off)

2.      Spectators (likewise)

3.      Lighter colored driving shoes or loafers

4.      White Bucks (my personal favorite)

3. Fall/Winter
   1. Colder Climate

                                                              i.      Colors- golds, rusts, earth tones, deeper purples, blues and reds. Again, consult your stylist for what flatters you in particular.

                                                            ii.      Sport coats- 3-fabrics:

1.      Corduroy

2.      Cashmere

3.      Wool or

4.      Blends of the Two

5.      Heavier Cotton Weaves- Twills, Moleskins

                                                          iii.      Trousers- 4, colors same as above to coordinate

                                                          iv.      Shoes- 1 or 2 pairs- varying shades of darker brown, leather or composite soles

1.      Chelsea Boots

2.      Chukka Boots

3.      Brogues

4.      Monk Straps

If you live in a warmer climate reverse the recommendations e.g. 3 sport coats, 4 pair of trousers for Spring/Summer.

A final note on Fashion vs. Style. If you’re a younger man, you want to seem aware of current styles. But don’t choose clothing that will stand out for all the wrong reasons. And beware of buying too many pieces that will be out of style after a season or two. Perhaps choose one item or two each season, and rely on your stylist’s input. Older men always want to look younger, and will go to great lengths to accomplish this. But again, your stylist can help you choose something that makes you look fashionable and up-to-date without looking ridiculous.