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What’s Hot and What’s Not
Men’s clothing has changed a lot over the last few years. Men are more concerned about their appearance than ever, and are spending more than ever to look their best. Dress codes are returning to business professional, yet younger men are spending more for premium denim and streetwear. Is all this money being spent wisely?
The properly dressed man shouldn’t spend too much of his wardrobe budget on fads. A couple of classic pieces a season are reasonable- perhaps a new tie or pocket square, a couple of shirts, and definitely a suit or pair of good shoes a year. After all, if you’ve been following our advice, these items will be wearing out, not being discarded because you bought something you don’t wear. Let’s take time to examine some purchases that may be in fashion, but won’t serve you well in the long run.
My definition of a classically styled garment is something that can be worn for two years or four consecutive seasons. Here’s what I think are Fad vs. Style:
Fads:
Streetwear-
Ø Hooded and shawl-collared sweat shirts, many with unique designs or vintage themes
Ø Military style shirts and jackets
Ø Vintage t-shirts
Ø Vintage tennis shoes- “kicks”, “sneaks”.
All of these items look great, particularly on the younger man. In fact, I own a few of them myself. But what’s cool and what isn’t changes rather quickly. It’s very rare to see something stay wearable for two years among the streetwear cognoscenti. Sadly, the vast majority of well-dressed hipsters will have to shed the streetwear for appropriate business attire when they get a job. But they will have learned quality and value in their streetwear, which will serve them well as they apply that knowledge and sense of style in purchasing a new business wardrobe
Skinny suits are currently the rage as well- narrow cuts for skinny frames with equally narrow ties and lapels. Some suits even have “high water” pegged pants worn with no shoes. The Rat Pack had a limited shelf life. Slim suits will fade away when the young men wearing them gain some weight, or move higher up the corporate ladder.
Premium Denim- My thoughts on high end jeans are much the same as those on streetwear. Yet denim is THE fastest growing area of men’s clothing. Denim has a whole culture of its own. Its adherents are as knowledgeable and passionate as any other man is about shirts, ties, and suits. In fact most denimheads have much more money invested in their jeans than in tailored clothing. But again, what will they do with all these jeans once they have to start working in an office? Even if you wear them in the evenings or weekends how could you possibly need more than 5 pairs?
Classic Style:
Bow Ties-The first rule for wearing a bow tie is that a man should be able to tie it himself. I’ve seen quite a few men wearing bows lately, and there are many irrefutable arguments to include them in the category of classical style. But I won’t wear them- too many flashbacks from 70s-era clip-ons.
Solid Ties-.A rich colored solid tie with an interesting texture is a classically great look on most men. Solid ties should always be darker and worn with a contrasting lighter shirt. Lighter ties with darker shirts make you look like Tony Soprano. I personally find this look boring and will rarely wear it.
Spread Collars- I’ve enjoyed the renaissance of spread collars, and think it looks great on most men particularly if the collar is a contrasting white. This shirt style began with removable white collars at the turn of the 20th century and was prevalent with attached collars during the 1920s. But all collars should be matched to a man’s facial shape, and spreads don’t look good on men with fuller faces. Also, thicker ties and larger knots are proper with spread collars.
Braces- Braces are worn by men who are very passionate about their business dress. They should only be affixed to one’s trousers by buttons; otherwise they belong on a farmer. Because braces ensure a man’s trousers rest on his natural waist, they are best for ensuring a well tailored suit flows properly.
Cuff links- Cuff links have been back since the early 1990s, and it’s surprising such an elegant accessory went anywhere in the first place. Metal link color should match any other metal you’re wearing. Colored links should correspond to one of the colors you’re wearing, the subtler the better. Avoid flashy cuff links unless you also wear pinkie rings and your name is Liberace.
Soft Sport Coats- Disclaimer-I’m a paid consultant for a brand selling soft-shouldered sport coats; you may want to take my opinion with a grain of salt. I find these coats more comfortable than suits and sport coats with a more pronounced shoulder. They’re a way to be dressy and comfortable at the same time. Successful men want to wear something to a business casual office that’s not a polo shirt and khakis- subtle but distinctive. And men want to dress up while dressing down when they’re in more casual situations and go out at night.
Pocket Square-. Pocket squares are a personal favorite and a way to finish off an outfit whether you’re dressing for the office or wearing a sport coat out at night. Many view the square as the new tie, particularly men who aren’t required to wear a suit to the office. You should match the predominant color of your square to one of the subtle colors in the rest of your ensemble. You should save bolder pocket squares for more conservative outfits, and vice versa. Stick to patterned squares, solids aren’t interesting, except for white linen with a suit for the office.
Low Vamp Shoes. Slip-ons have been around since Fred Astaire and the Duke of Windsor. They’re elegant and comfortable. Loafers are acceptable attire with jeans, flannels, corduroys, and other classic casual outfits. But loafers are NEVER to be worn with suits. And lose the kilties while you’re at it.
Double Breasted Suits- are also on the comeback. This is a classic look which a man of distinction will wear whether it’s considered in fashion or not. A double breasted suit represents power you should only wear it in appropriate situations. These suits look best with spread collars. NEVER wear a double breasted suit with a button-down shirt or low vamp shoes.
Matching Patterns- In his famous book Dress for Success John T. Malloy recommended wearing solid/pattern/solid for business dress. This set an entire male population back a sartorial generation. Men of the mid 20th century remained impeccably elegant for business or pleasure while matching colors and patterns. The practice of matching patterns is a fine art and requires a more detailed explanation, which I’ll give next month.
The best thing about sartorial choices today is that there are no longer any rules. Everyone can dress according to his taste and invent his own sense of style.
So have some fun with your choices, but be wise with your hard-earned cash. Keep in mind what’s hot and what’s not. | 
